Experience Unmatched Coziness with Toes Up Socks

It is quite possible that you’ve come across the various advantages of knitting socks in the toe-up manner. This unique approach eliminates the need for the traditional Kitchener stitch and the often time-consuming task of picking up stitches! Indeed, the advantages sound appealing, don’t they? However, you might be pondering over how it all actually works. If that’s the case, you have landed just at the right spot. This all-encompassing tutorial is designed to impart to you every little detail that you need to successfully complete your first toe-up sock pattern!

What are Toe-Up Socks?

In essence, toe-up socks are types of socks that are knitted starting from the toe and working your way up, which is quite contrary to the traditional method of knitting socks from the cuff down. The benefits are multifold:

• Since we’re starting from the toe, there’s no need for the Kitchener stitch;
• There are no stitches to pick up along the way;
• You have more control over the length of the sock;
• It allows you to try them on as you go and it’s easy to adjust the fit.

Essential Tools and Materials for Knitting Toe-Up Socks

Initiating a toe-up sock knitting project requires specific tools and materials to ensure a successful outcome. Here are the specifics:

Yarn Selection

Opt for yarn that ranges from fingering weight to DK weight. Remember, heavier yarn expedites the knitting process, resulting in warmer, thicker socks. However, this could limit your ability to incorporate complex motifs or intricate lace stitches due to fewer available stitches. Hence, choose carefully based on your preference.

Yarn specifically marked as sock yarn (usually a blend with 20-30% nylon) is an excellent choice. It strikes the right balance between durability and comfort.

A 100-gram skein of sock yarn should suffice for any shoe size below a US size 10 (42 EU). The Schachenmayr Regia 6-ply, for instance, works well for this pattern.

Knitting Needles

Based on your yarn weight, you’ll need either circular or double-pointed needles. For fingering weight yarn, the ideal needle size ranges from 2-2.5 mm. For DK weight yarn, a 3 to 3.5 mm needle works best.

Additional Tools

• A tapestry needle and a pair of scissors for clean finishing edges;
• A measuring tape is essential for perfect sizing;
• Stitch markers are optional, but they can be incredibly helpful in tracking your progress, especially for beginners.

Step 1: Accurate Size Calculation

Before embarking on the toe-up sock knitting journey, it is essential to accurately calculate the size necessary for a perfect fit. This requires a simple swatch knitting, measurements, and some basic math. It’s a crucial step that should never be skipped as it determines the overall comfort and fit of the finished socks.

A. Produce a Knitting Swatch

The first step in this process is knitting a trial swatch to help determine your gauge and calculate size.

1. Cast on between 24 to 30 stitches;
2. Craft 20-30 rows using the stockinette stitch;
3. Bind off loosely to maintain the consistency of the swatch.

B. Block Your Swatch

This involves washing and blocking your test piece using pins and a blocking mat. Stretch the swatch until the fabric evens out but avoid over-stretching.

This practice helps simulate the wear and tear that your finished socks would undergo, including regular washing. Carry your swatch around for a day or two to further mimic daily usage.

C. Measure Your Stitch Gauge

Now, with the aid of a tape measure, calculate the length needed to cover 10 stitches from the center of the swatch. Record this length for future reference.

For instance, if 10 stitches measure up to 4.5 centimeters, note down this figure.

D. Measure the Width of Your Foot

The next step is to measure the circumference of your foot at its broadest point.

Try to avoid too close to your toes or far towards the ankle. Let’s assume the foot circumference measures up to 23 centimeters, mark this number down.

E. Compute Your Toe-Box Size

Finally, based on the past measurements:

1. Determine the length of one stitch by dividing the length measured on your swatch by the total number of stitches (10). If 10 stitches measured 4.5 centimeters, then 4.5 cm ÷ 10 st = 0.45 cm/stitch;
2. To determine the number of stitches you need for the toe box, divide the circumference of your foot by the length of your stitch. If your foot has a circumference of 23 centimeters, then 23 cm ÷ 0.45 cm/st = approximately 51.1 stitches;
3. Round off to the nearest number divisible by 4, which in this case is 52 stitches.

Step 2: Crafting the Toe-Box

Having determined the correct size for your toe box, it’s time to cast on your stitches and start knitting. While popular options for cast-on methods include the Turkish cast-on and the Italian Cast-on, majority of knitters recently prefer the Magic Cast-on. The choice ultimately lies with you, so choose the method you feel delivers the best result for you.

Initiate by casting on 16 stitches using the Magic cast-on method.

Tip: For smaller sizes or when using very bulky yarn, you might only need to cast on 12 stitches. For bigger sizes with fine yarn, 20 stitches may be more appropriate. You will then knit across this adjusted number of stitches.

Below is a step-by-step guide on how to knit the toe-box:

• Round 1: Knit across all stitches;
• Round 2: Follow the pattern [k1, KFB, k4, SKL, k1] twice (20 stitches in total);
• Round 3: Next, follow the pattern [k1, KFB, k6, SKL, k1] twice (24 stitches in total).

Continue this method of adding more stitches in each round until your stitch count doubles. For instance, if you had a cast-on of 16 stitches, your Round 5 pattern should be:

• Round 5: Follow the pattern [k1, KFB, k10, SKL, k1] twice (32 stitches in total)

Then:

• Round 6: Knit across all stitches;
• Round 7: Follow the pattern [k1, KFB, k12, SKL, k1] twice (36 stitches in total)

After this, extend the pattern by increasing in every second round until there’s sufficient space for all stitches calculated for your foot (e.g. 52 stitches). Therefore, Round 15 should be:

• Round 15: Follow the pattern [k1, KFB, k20, SKL, k1] twice (52 stitches in total)

For a less rounded toe box, you can alternate and increase stitches only in every second round right from the beginning. Alternatively, increase stitches in every round on only one side to create a slight left or right slant, which may provide a more ergonomic fit.

Feel free to explore different increasing methods if KFB & SKL seem complex or if you prefer a different look. Nonetheless, irrespective of your chosen technique, always ensure that you maintain the predetermined number of stitches (e.g. 52 stitches).

Step 3: Foot

Kick-starting from where we left off, the foot section of the sock is knitted using a basic stockinette stitch. For those desiring a transition of color, make sure to knit an extra two rows in the initial color to achieve a smooth color change.

From rows 16 through 36, maintain a consistent knitting pattern across the stock (52 stitches).

Having knitted another section of approximately 5 centimeters, it’s time to calculate the size of your gusset and the starting point of your heel. This task sounds a bit technical but fear not, it’s as simple as pie with just a few more steps involved. Here, you need to determine two things:

1. The size of your heel;
2. The exact point to commence heel knitting.

Crafting the Perfect Sock Fit

A) Outlining Your Foot

Starting off, trace the outline of your foot on a sheet of paper. Ensure that you are not angling the pencil inward – a maximum circumference is required.

B) Heel Measurement

Following the foot outline, measure the distance from the bottom of your ankle knuckle to the beginning of the sole (or the height of your instep). This will define the length of your heel flap. For instance, this might be 5 cm.

C) Gusset Calculation

Next, try on your work-in-progress. If you’re using double-pointed needles (dpns), shift your stitches to a spare circular needle or some scrap yarn for convenience. Check if the sock fits as expected. If not, work out how many more (or fewer) stitches you need to increase for the toe box and unravel to the end of your toe box or however many rows before.

It’s important to remember that knitting behaves differently near the edges. Therefore, the last 5 rows you’ve knitted will always look a bit loose.

While still wearing your half-knitted sock, measure the length of your heel (e.g. 5 cm) and determine how many stitches in a row you need to cover that length. This is calculated by counting stitches in knitting (e.g. 12 stitches). These are the stitches you need to increase on either side of your stitchwork for the gusset to create a heel (flap) that is spacious enough to accommodate your heel and instep.

D) Gusset Start Point

The gusset is increased every second row. Multiply the gusset stitches by two. That’s the number of rows you need to knit the gusset (e.g. 12 st * 2 = 24 rows).

In addition, you need to calculate the length of your heel, which is worked across half of your stitches minus 2 (e.g. 52 st ÷ 2 = 26 st – 2 st = 24 st).

The heel is turned until only a third of the stitches are left.

E) Sock Measurements

In this step, measure the two numbers calculated in the first step using a tape. For instance, if you need to knit your gusset for 24 rows, and your heel turn will take 16 rows, measure the two numbers and then add them up.

F) Drawing Adjustments

Consequently, use the foot drawing made earlier. Starting from the back of your heel, measure the length calculated for your gusset and heel, and make a mark. All you need to do now is to lay your work-in-progress on the drawing and continue until you reach the marked spot.

Step 4: Gusset

Creating a gusset refers to the process of widening the portion of the sock that wraps around the midsection of the foot, allowing for a more comfortable and accommodating fit. Before diving into knitting the gusset, a small preparatory step needs to be taken: two stitches from the start and finish of the second side should be transferred to the first side. Stitch markers come in handy here, as they can be used to clearly separate the original stitches from the ones that have been transferred.

For instance, this could result in one side consisting of 22 stitches and the other side comprising 30 stitches, separated as follows – 2 stitches, stitch marker, 26 stitches, stitch marker, 2 stitches.

Proceeding from this setup, the first round for knitting the gusset might be broken down as follows:

• Gusset Round 1: Following this pattern – k2, slip marker, k1, KLL, knit across (24 stitches), KRL, k1, slip marker, k2, knit across the rest of your stitches. This should total up to 54 stitches.

Here’s a useful tip: There are multiple sets of left- and right-leaning increases which can be used, but KLL (Knit Left Loop) and KRL (Knit Right Loop) often provide the cleanest look.

• Round 2: Simply knit across all stitches;
• Round 3: This pattern is used – k2, slip marker, k1, KLL, knit across (resulting in 26 stitches), KRL, k1, slip marker, knit. This gives a total of 56 stitches;
• Round 4: Knit across all stitches;
• Round 5: Follow this pattern – k2, slip marker, k1, KLL, knit across (resulting in 28 stitches), KRL, k1, slip marker, knit. This results in a total of 58 stitches.

Continue to increase in every other round until the gusset matches the previously calculated size. For example, if the previous calculation indicated 76 stitches, continue to increase until this number is reached. Round 23 might look something like this:

• Round 23: Follow this pattern – k2, slip marker, k1, KLL, knit across 46 stitches, KRL, k1, slip marker, knit across 24 stitches. This will total to 76 stitches.

Note: If your pair of socks boasts stripes, consider knitting the gusset of the second sock across the second side. This clever trick allows for hiding the jogs or jumps between color changes and leaves them tucked away on the inside of your calves when you wear them.

Step 5: Mastering the Heel Turn

Once the gusset of the sock has been successfully knitted, the next step is to transition into creating the heel. The formation of the heel and the heel flap is carried out in a flat knitting style, distinct from the previous sections of the sock.

For the outset of this phase, two additional stitch markers are needed to demarcate the position of the gusset stitches on the first needle. A hypothetical arrangement could look as such – 54 stitches, divided as follows: 2 stitches, stitch marker, 12 stitches (representing the increase), stitch marker, 26 stitches, stitch marker, 12 stitches, stitch marker, 2 stitches.

The initial stage of turning the heel involves short rows. The procedure is as follows:

• Heel Turn Row 1: Begin by knitting until there is one stitch left before the third stitch marker, then turn your work around. A general tip here is to knit the heel across half the stitches, minus 2 stitches, to generate a cleaner result. For smaller sizes or if using bulky yarn, it might be beneficial to stop right before the stitch marker;
• Row 2: Implement a double stitch, then purl until one stitch remains before reaching the next marker on the opposite end, then turn your work around;
• Row 3: Create another double stitch and proceed to knit across until the previously created double stitch is reached, then turn your work around. Note: These double stitches are never knitted across, hence each subsequent row appears one stitch shorter;
• Row 4: Repeat the process of making a double stitch and purl across until the double stitch is reached, then turn your work around.

Rows 3 and 4 are repeated until slightly less than a third of the original stitches are left remaining.

The final steps are relatively straightforward – a right-side row is knitted across until reaching the double stitch, but unlike the previous rows, the work is not turned around this time. Using the previous calculations, the final row would look something like this: Row 16: Make a double stitch, knit across until you reach the double stitch, and finish without turning the work around.

By meticulously following these steps, the heel turn is effectively executed, resulting in a comfortable, well-fitted sock. Also, remember that it’s always beneficial to re-evaluate the process and make necessary adjustments based on the size and fit at every stage, allowing for a personalized pair of Toes Up Socks!

Step 6: Heel Flap and Calf

The construction stages of a toes-up sock involves several important steps. One of those being the crafting of the heel flap and calf. These steps require accuracy and precision to ensure a perfect fit and ultimate comfort.

How to Knit Heel Flap

1. Join the gusset stitches with the heel stitches to knit the heel flap;
2. For the first row of the heel flap, knit all double stitches together until you are one stitch before the gusset stitch marker. Slip, slip, knit (SSK) (remove the marker as you knit it). Turn your work around at this point (75 stitches);
3. For second row, slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in front (sl1p wyif), place a marker, purl across, then purl all double stitches together until you are one stitch before the gusset stitch marker on the other side, purl two together (p2tog) (remove marker as you knit it). Turn your work around (74 stitches);
4. For the third row, slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in back (sl1p wyib), place a marker, knit across, slip marker (sm), SSK. Turn your work around (73 stitches);
5. For the fourth row, sl1p wyif, sm, purl across, sm, p2tog. Turn your work around(72 stitches).

Continue this pattern of decreasing until there are only two stitches between markers 1 and 2 and 3 and 4, typically at around 54 stitches.

Proceed with Knitting in the Round

Next, proceed with knitting in the round and decreasing the last two stitches as you proceed. This technique creates a fine transition and avoids holes.

For example, in round 23, begin with sl1p wyib, sm, knit across, sm, SSK, sm, knit two stitches (k2), knit across the second side until the next marker, sm, knit two stitches together (k2tog), sm. (52 stitches)

Now, remove your stitch markers. Note that the last k2tog will be worked across the stitch you’ve slipped at the beginning of the round.

Round 24: Knit across

To Fit the Sock

After this, continue in the pattern until you’ve reached the desired length. However, after you’ve knitted approximately 5 cm/2 inches, try your sock on again.

The size of your sock is determined by the circumference of your foot, and the leg part will have the same circumference. If you have a pronounced ankle/instep, you may not be able to fit your foot through.

To remedy this, you can add stitches in every round for the last 2/4/6 gusset rounds, and stop the heel flap decrease rows 2/4/6 rows earlier. Alternatively, you can unravel until the start of your heel flap, undo the last 2/4/6 heel flap rows, and start your leg with e.g. 54/56/58 stitches.

Step 7: The Cuff

The crowning touch to any sock is the cuff. This final band of fabric secures the sock in place and adds an aesthetic finish. Crafting a carefully measured, comfortable cuff is a mark of a well-made sock. Here’s how to do it:

To determine the length of the cuff, measure the circumference of the part of the foot where the sock fits perfectly. Let’s say that measurement is 23 cm. Now, measure the same circumference on your calf, marking the point where the calf shares the same dimensions.

Continue knitting the leg until your project reaches this point on your calf. For a firmer grip and to avoid the sock from sliding down, continue knitting for an extra 1 to 2 cm beyond this point.

Typically, cuffs are knitted in a ribbing pattern. The choice of ribbing style depends on the weight of your yarn and the total stitches per round. For example, if you’re working with heavy yarn and have 30 stitches per round, a 2×2 rib may not look as attractive. Conversely, if you’re using thin yarn and have 80 stitches per round, a 1×1 rib could be too fine and disappear into the texture of the yarn.

Here’s a generic cuff knitting pattern:

• Cuff Round 1: Follow the pattern “k2, p2”;
• Round 2: Repeat the pattern “k2, p2”;
• Continue repeating this ribbing pattern for a total length of 5 cm or about 2 inches.

For those who wish to add a dash of color to their cuff, remember to knit across one row with the new yarn ball for a seamless and neat transition.

Counting Rows in Knitting

Keeping track of your knitting rows is essential for creating a well-finished project, especially when working on intricate patterns like the toe-up socks described earlier. Here’s a simple method to count your rows effectively:

• Use a Row Counter: Invest in a handy row counter tool that can be easily attached to your knitting needles. With each completed row, click the counter to keep an accurate tally. This is one of the most straightforward methods to ensure precision;
• Visual Inspection: For those who prefer a more traditional approach, visually inspect your work. Rows in knitting often appear as a series of horizontal lines formed by the “V” shapes of the stitches. Counting these rows can be done by running your finger along the fabric, feeling the raised ridges that separate each row. Be sure to count consistently, checking every few rows to avoid mistakes;
• Use a Lifeline: When working on complex patterns, inserting a contrasting-colored lifeline yarn after a set number of rows can be a lifesaver. This makes it easy to count rows by simply counting the lifelines. If you make a mistake or need to frog your work (undoing rows), you can easily return to the last lifeline without losing your place;
• Mark Key Rows: In intricate projects, mark key rows with stitch markers or safety pins. For example, every 10th row, place a marker to signal that it’s time to count and ensure you’re on track;
• Keep a Knitting Journal: Consider maintaining a knitting journal where you jot down the number of rows completed in each session. This can serve as both a record of your progress and a counting reference.

By incorporating these row-counting techniques into your knitting routine, you’ll maintain accuracy in your projects and achieve the desired results, whether it’s crafting cozy toe-up socks or any other intricate knitting endeavor. 

Wrapping Up

Creating an optimal sock knitting pattern involves a careful selection of processes – knitting the foot, outlining and measuring the gusset and heel, knitting the gusset, turning the heel, and finally, perfecting the cuff. Each step adds vital form and functionality to the sock, transforming a simple string of yarn into a cozy, stylish, and well-fitted sock.

Keep in mind that the ultimate goal is comfort and a perfect fit. Always tailor the steps according to the specific measurements of the wearer and experiment with patterns and styles for a unique twist. After all, nothing beats the satisfaction and pride of wearing a personalized pair of socks, handcrafted to perfection. Happy knitting!