The Ultimate Guide to Knitting Socks for Beginners

In search of a guide to craft socks by knitting? A straightforward top-down pattern that’s beginner-friendly and quick to complete without requiring extensive experience has been provided. Here’s a step-by-step guide on the traditional method of knitting socks for beginners using double-pointed needles, including a straightforward striped pattern that’s universally fitting.

Hand-knitted socks have been a preference since childhood, often bringing joy (and occasionally a challenge) to family members. Numerous methods exist for knitting socks: toe-up, two at a time, even flat with two needles, and then there’s the magic loop. However, this guide focuses on the traditional way—a time-honored technique ensuring a perfect fit for any foot size or gender.

Once accustomed to this process, it’s recommended to explore and discover knitting techniques that better match one’s personal style and physical needs. Starting with a straightforward pattern that suits advanced beginners is advised. No need to fear the double-pointed needles; with just a bit of practice and helpful tips, they become second nature. The featured design includes stripes, but opting for a single color is also a possibility. For example, a recent project involved knitting plastic-free, naturally dyed socks using the same pattern.

While knitting socks is a delightful and cozy pastime, if you’re looking to expand your knitting skills, you might also want to explore how to knit a hat.

Essential Materials for Sock Knitting

For most sock patterns, fine yarn and thin needles are a must, especially for everyday wear to create a lightweight, breathable fabric that won’t overheat inside shoes. This sock guide is also compatible with DK weight yarn and 3.00 mm needles.

The following are required:

• 100-150 grams of fingering weight sock yarn for 2.5 mm needles. A recommended choice is yarn from Samelin Dyeworks;
• Double-pointed knitting needles size 2.50 mm. Recommended are Knitter’s Pride Karbonz needles, which are well-regarded for their speed and grip;
• For socks, 6-inch needles are preferable over 8-inch;
• A tapestry needle and scissors;
• Measuring tape;
• (Optional) A 2.00 mm crochet hook for picking up heel stitches, like the Knitter’s Pride Waves;
• (Optional) Stitch markers;
• (Optional) Needle stoppers.

This guide will demonstrate the process with three different colors to illustrate the creation of popular stripe patterns. For this effect, one 100 grams skein and two 50 grams skeins of the same yarn type are necessary—avoid mixing brands. Alternatively, knitting with a single color is simpler and just as effective.

Determining the Number of Stitches for Sock Casting On

To start knitting socks, the initial step involves calculating the number of stitches to cast on. This is achieved by knitting a swatch, followed by some straightforward calculations. While sock charts and patterns exist, a swatch is necessary to confirm gauge accuracy and may require re-knitting if the gauge is incorrect. Self-calculation is a more straightforward and reliable method.

Here’s a condensed guide to ascertain the required cast on stitches for socks:

1. Cast on 30 stitches and knit 30 rows in stockinette stitch with the intended sock yarn and needles, then bind off;
2. Wash and block the swatch (this step is crucial);
3. Count the stitches across a 5 cm / 2 in. width of the swatch;
4. Measure the foot’s widest part, typically around the ankle/heel.

Perform the calculations:

• Divide the counted stitches by the measured width;
• Multiply the quotient by the foot’s circumference;
• Deduct approximately 15% to compensate for the stockinette stitch’s negative ease;
• Round to the nearest number divisible by 4.

The result gives the number of stitches to cast on.

Note: This is an abridged explanation. Typically, a comprehensive swatch knitted in the round is recommended, along with a precise calculation of ease. However, for those new to sock knitting, checking the fit after 30 rounds can often be quicker than striving for an impeccable swatch.

Crafting the Sock Cuff

After determining the required number of stitches to cast on, begin with the double-pointed needles for the cuff.

• Initiate with a long tail cast on, casting on the calculated number of stitches plus one, using two needles for an extra stretchy edge;
• Then, allocate these stitches across four needles. For example, casting on 68 stitches is suitable for a man’s size 8.5 (U.S.);
• To join in the round, slip the initial stitch from the first needle to the last needle, then lift the second stitch on the last needle over the first stitch (similar to a bind-off);
• Return the remaining stitch to the first needle and pull the yarn ends to tighten. (For more detailed instructions, see the provided knitting in the round tutorial.);
• Continue by working in a 2×2 rib (knit 2, purl 2) for approximately 5 cm/2 in;
• For example, knitting 24 rows will create the ribbing;
• Adjust the cuff length as needed to fit different shoe sizes.

Note: The initial few rounds on double-pointed needles may seem unstable. This is a common experience and it is encouraged to keep going. After approximately one centimeter, the knitting will become much more secure.

Constructing the Sock Leg

After completing the cuff to satisfaction, it’s time to proceed to the leg portion. Although various stitch patterns can be utilized, the stockinette stitch offers simplicity and effectiveness for the leg.

If desired, this is the point to change colors; however, the process for knitting the leg remains consistent:

• Continue knitting all rows and stitches;
• It’s critical to test the fit of the sock after about 30 rows;
• All stitches can be transferred to a spare circular needle or a piece of scrap yarn can be threaded through with a tapestry needle to hold the stitches temporarily.

This allows for checking the fit of the cuff, ensuring it can stretch over the heel comfortably. If the fit is not right—either too tight or too loose—measure the additional or reduced fabric needed, unravel, and adjust the number of cast-on stitches as necessary.

Avoid testing the fit too early, such as after only 10 rows, as the ribbing will settle and stretch after a more substantial length has been knitted. It’s recommended to periodically try on the socks after each significant step to confirm the fit throughout the process.

Determining the Length of the Sock Leg

• Refer back to the foot’s widest measurement. With the measuring tape, circle the calf and extend to the point where the circumference matches the foot’s widest measurement, then determine the length down to the ankle knuckle;
• Subtract the length already covered by the cuff from this measurement;
• For example, if the total measured length is 20 cm, and the cuff is 5 cm, the stockinette stitch portion should be 15 cm.

Note: For those with larger calves or smaller ankles, the socks may be shorter. To adjust, cast on additional stitches and decrease to the original count as the knitting progresses towards the ankle.

Incorporating Stripes into the Sock

Adding stripes offers a visually appealing touch without significantly increasing knitting complexity. Simply introduce a new yarn every few rows, keeping in mind some guidelines:

• For stripes of 4 rows or fewer, yarn can be carried along the back;
• For stripes of 5 to 10 rows, yarn can also be carried along the back, but floats should be created every 2 or 3 rows by crossing the yarns, similar to Fair Isle techniques;
• For stripes exceeding 10 rows, it’s best to cut the yarn after each stripe completion to avoid excessive floats, even though it means more yarn ends to weave in later.

A crucial tip: Avoid starting a new yarn at the beginning or end of a needle to prevent creating a ladder. It’s better to change yarns mid-needle, marking the new start of the round with a stitch marker.

Crafting a Sock Heel

Now it’s time to progress to the heel. A traditional sock heel is structured into three sections: the heel flap, the heel turn, and the gusset.

The classic heel-flap and gusset method provides an adjustable fit for different sizes and preferences. It’s the easiest way to ensure a comfortable fit for varying instep heights, even though it involves picking up stitches.

Heel Flap

A reinforced heel flap with slipped stitches is recommended for durability due to the high wear in the heel area. Another option is knitting the heel with an additional yarn, such as a nylon thread, for increased strength.

Regardless of the stitch count, the heel flap is created over half the stitches, rounded down to the nearest multiple of four (for example, 32 stitches). The flap is worked flat, typically across the first two needles, with this pattern:

• Round 1: RS (Right Side): SL1p wyif, k1;
• Round 2: WS (Wrong Side): SL1p wyif, p1.

If stripes are being added, introduce the new color at the start of the heel flap and continue with attached yarns for a smooth transition, possibly knitting the first row for a neater look. For the second sock, consider working the heel across the third and fourth needles to conceal the color change on the less visible inner calf.

Height of the Heel Flap

The heel flap should match the distance from the ankle knuckle to the sole. Measure this length to determine the required knitting duration for the heel flap.

Turning the Heel

The heel turn is executed with a basic short-row technique as follows:

• Preparation: Knit to the middle of the heel, continuing the slipped stitch pattern;
• Row 1: K1, SSK, k1, then turn the work without completing the row;
• Row 2: SL1p wyif, p3, p2tog, p1, then turn the work;
• Continue in the pattern until all stitches are worked, turning the work at the end of each short row.

Picking Up Stitches for the Gusset

The gusset can be challenging due to the necessity of picking up stitches, which may seem daunting. The process, however, is quite straightforward:

• Step 1: After completing the heel, cut the yarn and pick up the previous stripe color, place a stitch marker, and pick up a stitch from the gap between the heel flap and the previous fourth needle to avoid holes at the gusset’s top;
• Step 2: Then, pick up a stitch from each edge stitch, tightening them periodically;
• Step 3: Knit across the heel, joining a new needle in the middle;
• Step 4: Pick up stitches on the heel flap’s opposite side, one for each edge stitch;
• Step 5: Add one more stitch from the gap and place a stitch marker, ensuring an equal number of stitches on both sides without missing any;
• Step 6: Knit across the remaining stitches on the previous third and fourth needles, closing the round.

For a single color project, simply alter the order of these steps, starting with step 3 and concluding with steps 1 and 3 after completing step 6.

Knitting the Gusset

After picking up the stitches, begin the gusset with decreased rounds to return to the original stitch count:

• SSK, knit to two stitches before the second marker, k2tog, slip the marker, and complete the round;
• Knit all stitches.

• Alternate these rounds until the original stitch count is restored;
• For a single color, the round begins at the heel top, requiring knitting to two stitches before the first marker, then k2tog, knit to the next marker, ssk, and complete the round.

Avoid an SSK or K2tog as the last or first stitch on a needle to prevent holes. Shuffle stitches if necessary.

After completing the gusset, test the fit again. For flatter feet where the fabric may seem loose, consider additional decreases for a snug fit, or unravel a few rounds if it feels too tight.

Crafting the Sock Leg

Following the gusset, the process is to continue with stockinette stitch throughout the leg. If stripes have been incorporated, maintain the established pattern without any decreases.

Determining the Length of the Sock Foot

The length of the sock foot is contingent upon the individual’s shoe size, which dictates the total length required. However, one must subtract the lengths of the gusset, heel, and yet-to-be-knitted toebox from this measurement.

For an illustrative point, one might say their leg, from the start of the gusset, measures 11 cm, with a toebox of 5 cm. Nonetheless, these dimensions will vary based on shoe size and yarn used. A reliable method is to conclude by knitting the leg at the point aligning with the middle of the pinky toe.

Constructing the Toe Section of the Sock

Approaching the toe box is a sign that the final phase of the sock is near. It’s a moment to regroup because from this point forward, each round will diminish in stitch count. Here’s an expanded approach to shaping the toes on a sock:

Preparation: Ensure the stitch count is balanced between the upper and lower needle pairs. The junctions should be in line with the decreased columns from the gusset phase.

• Visualize the sock as it would be worn, with toes directed outward. With two needles at the top and two at the bottom, decreases will occur one stitch before and after the division between the top and bottom sections, avoiding any decreases in the center;
• The commencement of toe shaping is suggested to begin on the needle to the lower left, where placing a marker may be beneficial for orientation;
• The initial rounds (1-3) can include a color shift if desired, maintaining a consistent knit stitch;
• In round 4, the decreasing process begins with an SSK (slip, slip, knit) near the round’s start, followed by knitting until three stitches remain before the second needle’s end, then a k2tog (knit two together), and repeating a similar decrease pattern across the corresponding points on the remaining needles;
• Round 5 involves plain knitting without decreases;
• This sequence of a decrease round followed by a knit round is to be continued, reducing the stitch count by half;
• Subsequent to this reduction, proceed with decrease rounds without intervening knit rounds until the stitch count is halved once more, achieving the desired toe tapering.

Finalizing the Sock with Kitchener Stitch and Tail Weaving

As the knitting draws to a close with only 16 or 20 stitches remaining, it’s time to complete the socks with the Kitchener stitch. To prepare, leave a tail of about 10 inches after cutting the working yarn, and then follow the detailed instructions provided in the link.

An alternative method involves decreasing until only 8 stitches remain and then drawing the yarn through these stitches. However, this often results in a pointy toe that may not offer the best fit, thus it’s not generally recommended.

The final step involves weaving in the yarn tails. Before doing so, it’s worth celebrating the completion of the sock – a notable achievement indeed! Additionally, it’s important to try on the sock immediately. This step is crucial in evaluating if the toebox requires adjustments for size, either making it roomier or snugger. If necessary, unravel and reknit the toe section starting at a different point to achieve the perfect fit. For tail weaving, a sharp tapestry needle is typically used to neatly finish off the ends.

Blocking (Optional)

There is one additional consideration in the sock-making process: blocking. Blocking involves washing the completed project in lukewarm water, carefully pinning it to a soft surface without overstretching, and allowing it to dry. This process shapes the sock and evens out the stitches (a comprehensive tutorial on blocking knitting can be found via the provided link).

While blocking is essential for some knitting projects like lace, it’s not mandatory for socks. Socks are frequently washed and subject to the warmth and moisture of feet, which naturally alter their appearance over time. However, for gifts or photography purposes, blocking can enhance the presentation of the socks.

It’s also noteworthy that some yarns contain residual spinning oils. Therefore, washing the socks before their initial wear can be beneficial in removing these substances.

Final Reflections on Crafting Socks

The journey of knitting socks brings its own set of lessons and insights. The process for the second sock mirrors the first, with potential minor adjustments such as repositioning the heel to conceal color transitions. It’s crucial to begin the second sock immediately to avoid the common pitfall of ‘second sock syndrome’.

It’s not uncommon for the first sock to deviate slightly from the ideal fit, often being slightly larger or somewhat irregular in shape. This is a typical experience for beginners and should not overshadow the accomplishment of completing a sock. Minor adjustments can be made on the second sock, such as altering the stitch count or modifying the heel height, to achieve a better fit.

For subsequent pairs, it’s beneficial to stick to the same pattern and yarn type used in the initial pair. This consistency ensures that the lessons learned can be directly applied, avoiding the need to recalibrate techniques and measurements for different materials. Keeping these factors consistent allows for a more streamlined and efficient knitting process in future projects.

Conclusion

By following this guide, you will learn the timeless art of sock knitting. Remember, the journey to becoming an expert sock knitter is filled with learning opportunities and discoveries. Experiment with various techniques and patterns, and don’t forget to try on your socks periodically to ensure a great fit.