A girl knits a warm sweater on the bed

Beginner’s Guide to Mastering Fair Isle Knitting

Foster Ruby

Unlock the secret to knitting eye-catching, two-colored masterpieces with the mesmerising technique of Fair Isle knitting. Perhaps you’ve admired the intricate colorwork displayed in plush sweaters, snuggly hats, and cozy socks. Maybe you’ve yearned to create your own handcrafted garments boasting a similar tapestry of colors. If so, this comprehensive guide will help you navigate the woven waters of Fair Isle knitting, empowering you to successfully complete your first project – no matter your level of expertise!

Fair Isle Knitting: A Deep-Dive

Fair Isle knitting hails from the humble Shetland Islands, etching its name into the annals of knitting styles with its remarkable, multicolored charm. This traditional technique artistically employs numerous colors, skillfully woven together to create mesmerizing patterns, which were most commonly manifested in snug jumpers.

This two-tone knitting method carries the hallmark of weaving unused colors on the reverse side of the project. The technique necessitated knitting in circular patterns, with the use of a maximum of two colors per round. The yarn was never stretched over more than 3-4 stitches, and it was strictly implemented in the stockinette stitch pattern. The unique charm of Fair Isle knitting emanated from the muted color palette intrinsic to locally dyed yarn, which lent it a distinct, warmly rustic appeal.

Flash forward to the present, and the name ‘Fair Isle knitting’ has evolved to include a broader spectrum of multi-colored knitting projects. You may also encounter terms like ‘nordic stranded colorwork’ or ‘jacquard’ in the same context. The ‘floats’ or unused yarn strands, traditionally knit every 3-5 stitches, are now being carried over an unlimited number of stitches, paving the way for more complex and intricate designs.

This knitting technique, despite its aesthetic complexity, is surprisingly accessible and can be effortlessly embraced by even moderately experienced beginners. It offers the flexibility of being knit both circularly (in the round) and flat – though one must be mindful of potential curling at the edges in the latter case, which can be counteracted with special selvage stitches.

Decrypting Fair Isle Knitting: A Comprehensive Guide

Embarking on your Fair Isle knitting journey can seem daunting at first, but by following our meticulously crafted guide, you will navigate through the basic steps with ease. Here are some step-by-step instructions to help you get started:

  1. Start by casting on your desired number of stitches, using a moderately stretchy cast-on technique and your chosen color (let’s call this color A). The long-tail cast-on can be a great place to start;
  2. Transition to knitting in the round or turn your project around, introducing a second color (color B). As a novice, you can tie a simple knot around the working yarn, sliding it down to sit at the base of your last stitch in color A;
  3. Hold both strands of yarn, wrapping them around the pinky finger of your left hand once;
  4. Guide these strands across your hand, pick up your knitting needle, and rest the two strands on your index finger;
    Note: Fair Isle knitting may necessitate a looser tension than you’re used to. Modify your usual tension technique as needed;
  5. From your index finger, pick up the right color and flip it around, ensuring the strand comes from below. This will keep the two colors separate and make your knitting process smoother;
  6. Using only color B, start by knitting one stitch. Enter the first stitch normally, staying above color A, approach from the right and then wrap color B around your needle in the standard anti-clockwise direction to knit a stitch, pulling it through. Leave color A unused and on the left;
  7. Continue to knit 1-3 more stitches in color B, always staying above yarn A and coming in from the right. This technique will neatly carry the unused yarn along the wrong side to create a ‘float’;
  8. To switch colors, simply knit the next stitch in color A, wrap the first strand around your needle counter-clockly, and pull through, leaving color B untouched in the back/right;
  9. After knitting that stitch, stretch out the stitches on the right needle. This action will ensure the float created on the backside in color A will be long enough to prevent your fabric from puckering;
  10. Continue knitting up to 3 stitches in color A. Always remember to stretch out the fabric after the first stitch in a new color, ensuring the stitches on the right needle are never bunched up;
  11. If you aim to knit more than 4-5 stitches in a single color, you need to ‘catch floats’. This involves anchoring the unused yarn by trapping it between the needle and the working yarn on the backside, preventing long loops from forming on the backside and tangling your knitting;
  12. To ‘catch a float’ in the dominant color (color A), knit the next stitch (typically the 3rd or 4th) coming in from the left (instead of the usual right);
  13. As usual, wrap color B around your needle counter-clockwise and pull through the stitch;
  14. For the next stitch, where the two colors are twisted, grab color B coming from the right to untwist;
  15. Next, stretch out the stitches on the right needle and gently tug both strands to eliminate excess slack. Repeating this every 3-5 stitches allows an unused color to be carried for an unlimited number of stitches;
  16. To ‘catch a float’ of the background color (color B), loop all the way around color B from the right/behind;
  17. From here, you can either wrap the yarn around the needle counter-clockwise (which can be difficult) and pull the yarn through or wrap the yarn around clockwise (easier but results in a twisted stitch);
  18. If you choose the second method, remember to untwist this stitch in the next round by knitting it through the back loop;
  19. Knit the next stitch by crossing color B again to untwist the yarns, and carry on as required by your patter.

Note: Catching a float of the dominant color is typically simpler, so when creating your own Fair Isle pattern, aim to structure it so that there are not too many sections where you have to knit more than 5 stitches in a row in the dominant color.

Hands holding knitting needles and knitting, close-up

The Best Left-Leaning Decrease in Knitting

In the intricate world of Fair Isle knitting, mastering the art extends beyond colorwork and floats. A crucial element is the art of choosing the perfect decrease method, and among them, the left-leaning decrease stands out as a vital technique. Known for its ability to maintain the symmetry and elegance of your knitted fabric, the left-leaning decrease adds a touch of finesse to your Fair Isle creations.

Navigating the World of Flat Fair Isle Knitting

While traditional Fair Isle knitting is typically performed in the round, practitioners are not bound by this method and can also attempt knitting flat. It’s important to know how to navigate this variant effectively, so here are some factors to consider and instructions to follow:

Knitting flat in Fair Isle can pose challenges, for instance:

  1. Flat Fair Isle tends to curl relentlessly, which confines its use to seamed projects such as sweaters. This issue can be mitigated by adding a wide selvage or border;
  2. The floats obscure the pattern on the wrong side, making it difficult to observe the design, leading to potential mistakes;
  3. Maintaining consistent purl tension is a common struggle. This struggle often results in alternating tight and loose rows.

Despite these challenges, if you still wish to knit flat, consider these tips after finishing the first row as detailed above:

  1. Consider knitting the first and/or last stitch of each row with both strands held together. Wrap both strands around your needle in a counter-clockwise direction. This action anchors the two strands at the edges, preventing the yarn from being pulled upward when knitting the first stitch in color, which could create a hole in the middle of the row below;
  2. As an alternative, you could also twist the two yarns around each other by turning your work clockwise. This creates a slightly bumpier but less bulky edge.

Now, to knit the return row, the process is similar, except all stitches must be purled using only one strand of yarn.

Here is a step-by-step guide to flat Fair Isle knitting:

  1. Purl a stitch in color B by entering the next stitch from right to left. Wrap only color B around the needle in a counter-clockwise direction, keeping yarn A in front, to the left;
  2. To purl a stitch in color A, enter the next stitch from right to left, go above color B, wrap yarn A around the needle counter-clockly, and pull through. Color B stays behind your working needle but in front of your work;
  3. To catch a float in the dominant color, purl the next stitch in color B by coming in from the left, pushing color A to the side;
  4. With the next stitch, continue purling as normal (from the right) to untwist the strands;
  5. To catch a float in the background color, go all the way around, coming in from behind color B. Next, wrap the yarn around the needle counter-clockly and pull through. This step might feel awkward, and you might have to separate the strands with your middle finger.

Conclusion

Mastering the art of Fair Isle knitting, whether in the round or flat, opens up a whole world of creative possibilities. While both methods have their unique challenges, understanding the nuances of each can enable you to apply them to a variety of knitting projects effectively. The key is to practice, explore, and enjoy the process of creating your beautiful handmade pieces. As with any craft, patience and persistence are essential – with these, you’ll be able to craft your Fair Isle knitting masterpieces in no time!